Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Hundreds of Elephants in Kenya's Amboseli Park

Amboseli National park

Amboseli national park was Kenya’s first established game park. Since 1948, millions of international guests, including Hollywood film companies, have been drawn to the park by the magic of Mt. Kilimanjaro-the snowcapped mountain reaching to the sky above, with wildlife grazing under flat-topped thorn trees below.

Despite its proximity to the mountain, many tourists today are disappointed with Amboseli because of its dusty dirt roads and the barren expanses caused in part by the overuse of humans and animals. Years of abuse by tourists vehicles have left off-road vehicle tracks where there had been grasslands. Prolific herds of elephant have broken and destroyed trees-creating stark and stunning weathered sculptures on the landscape.

Much of Amboseli is dry and desert like. In fact, about a third of the park is taken up by Lake Amboseli, a seasonal soda lake which, at certain times, appears to be dead, flat wasteland. Indeed, Amboseli is maa for “salt dust.” In dramatic areas bright green with primordial clumps of vegetation.

In Amboseli, more than in any other park of Kenya, you are guaranteed to see many elephant. Elephant herds are easily visible across rolling grassy savannas, usually grazing their way to and from major feeding grounds or water holes.

Although Amboseli has major problems, it is heartening to consider the regenerative forces of nature. Remains of trees left by elephant are returning nutrients to the soil. According to scientists, the water table of Lake Amboseli is rising. Because there is water in the lake more often, there are also flamingos to be seen. These factors, combined wth needed efforts by Kenyan authorities and conservationists to control “tourist erosion”, may help to give Amboseli the opportunity for recovery. Off –road driving is now forbidden.

Many still enjoy coming to Amboseli. Always, there is the possibility of seeing the mountain. Enjoyment of Amboseli National Park is in the eye and understanding of the beholder.

Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge

The Amboseli Serena safari lodge is the nicest and most interesting lodge IN Amboseli National Park. The rounded terracotta shape of the lodge resembles a Masai dwelling, and wildlife and Masai themes are repeated throughout the hotel.

To enter, you walk across a wooden bridge over running water, a pleasant contrast to the hot dusty roads of the park. Hanging gardens and water lilies contribute to an impression of a return to Eden. Rounded spaces, wall, windows and doorways combine with a certain cool dimness to take you away from the straight sharp edges of modern life. The emphasis is on smooth, natural harmony with the environment and the wildlife in it.

Whimsical wall-sized paintings of wildlife delightfully decorate interior walls. Hanging lights are shaded by the irregular shapes of hollow Masai grounds, adding interest to the ceiling. At check-in you receive your Masai war-club with key attached-“to fend off monkeys,” the receptionists say with a smile.

The passage leading to rooms is open to the sky and traverses thick tropical gardens. The bedrooms are small. However, large wall-sized windows either look towards Mt. Kilimanjaro or towards the water hole visited by herds of Wildebeest, antelope and elephant. Bedroom walls echo the wildlife outside with another animal mural. The bathroom is modern, but the wall is curved, and a Masai spear holds up the shower curtain. The décor uses natural materials in unusual ways to suggest the Masai way of harmonizing with nature; cut sticks frame the beds, a Masai club is the door handle, hollowed gourds are the bed lights.

The pool, main bar and outdoor terraces overlook the surprising green grass and bush of the water hole. There are no fences. Guests have many opportunities for game viewing, even at night, when elephant families graze just a few meters away under floodlight.

To reach the dining area you cross an indoor bridge over more running water, with floating gardens and water lilies. The dining area is broken up into several adjoining rooms of different sizes, making for pleasant and intimate services. Floor –to ceiling windows give the feeling of eating in the gardens, though the main dining room is dark, and monkeys can be uninvited “guests”.

Breakfast (with complimentary champagne) and lunch are served buffet-style, and dinners are served at a table with candle light. For an extra fee, you can choose to participate in the Masai Exotic Dinner, served every other night in the terrace below the swimming pool. Waiters in Masai Shuka serve barbequed meats and traditional foods and there is an open bar.

The lodge invites guests to help preserve and restore the ecology of Amboseli by planting a tree in the 25 hectares of grounds surrounding the lodge. For those interested in Masai Culture, Masai customs are explained informally in afternoon lectures in the conference room, and Masai dancers appear at night campfire.

The clientele often includes tour groups, guests usually stay for only one night, and for many it is their first experience with animals in the wild.

Accommodations at the Amboseli Serena Lodge

Bedrooms are small. There are 86 with twin beds and 10 with double beds. All have modern bathrooms with combination bathtub and shower. Rooms with double beds are smaller and have no large window. Best water hole views #45-51. Best views of Kilimanjaro,#23 &24. Good views of Kilimanjaro # 4-26.

Special offerings

Game drives, bird walks, binoculars, swimming pool, jogging path, play ground, small airplane flights over Mt. Kilimanjaro by arrangement, folk singing guitarists at night, lectures on masai culture, library room, souvenir and sundry shop. Resident nurse, gas station, conference room.

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