If you are from upcountry, the ambiance in Mombasa assaults your senses with one message: here things are different – slow, sultry, exotic. The first rule is to move slowly. If you do not, the sweltering heat soon slows you down. However, once you reach your hotel you quickly recover a sense of near normalcy. Very few rooms are without overhead fans, and many have air-conditioning. But the real boon is the almost perpetual onshore breeze. No matter how hot it gets, so long as you wear loose, light and comfortable clothing, the heat remains bearable. So you have arrived. What do you do? You could just laze away by the sea with a good book, or engage in a whole range of water sports from angling to water skiing.
Kenya is blessed with some of the finest coral reefs to be found anywhere in the world and the hotels and resorts to the north and south of Mombasa are well equipped to cater for everyone, from the humble ‘goggler’ to the experienced scuba diver. If you are a scuba diver, you can rent equipment at several sites. If you are not, competent professionals at the same places offer tuition at reasonable rates.
There is also the big game of the sea. Hemingway helped put East Africa on the map with his stories of hunting the region’s terrestrial fauna, but the ocean beyond the reef provides plenty of opportunities for indulging one of Hemingway’s other favourite pursuits. The beach resorts are so self-contained that visitors normally do not venture out. With multiple restaurants to cater for diverse tastes, swimming pools, a range of water sports, tennis and other games as well as children’s activities, most holiday makers spend all their time within the confines of their hotel.
It is advisable to visit the city centre though, if for nothing else, to experience the slightly indolent, relaxed atmosphere, compared to, say, Nairobi. The coastal city represents laid-back elements that are lacking upcountry. Mombasa’s Old Town, with its maze of lanes, mosques and cramped ancient houses sloping gently down to the once busy dhow harbour, gives a feel of the past. It is well worth a visit, and so is fort Jesus, an impressive reminder of Mombasa’s complicated bloody past, which overlooks the Old Town, from where it once guarded the harbour’s entrance. It is now a national monument and museum and provides an interesting tour through history.
For the budget holiday maker, relatively decent accommodation available in the city center, from where one can visit the beaches easily.
LAMU, MALINDI AND WATAMU
While still at the coast, you may want to take your holiday in Lamu. Do not overlook the museum; it has a Swahili kitchen with pestles and mortars, carved Lamu thrones with wicker seats, and elaborately carved Lamu headboards. Upstairs is an amazing collection of weapons and costumes dating back to the 18th century. Also of interest is the Swahili House Museum, a traditional Swahili house furnished with traditional Swahili furniture.
If you enjoy diving and snorkeling, then Malindi is the place to go. Explore the Malindi Marine National Park in glass-bottomed boat. It is exhilarating. The six square kilometres of the national park cover the loveliest of coral garden. Take tuk-tuk within the town will cost you Ksh50 – cheaper than taking a matatu, all things considered. Apart from the cost, the open sides of the tuk-tuk let in the air, allowing for a comfortable ride.
Visit Vasco da Gama’s Pillar and Cross at Vasco da Gama Point. The spot marks the last stop in Africa before Vasco da Gama sailed across the Indian Ocean to India in 1498. The cross surmounting the pillar was tested and found to be made of Lisbon limestone, proving that it is indeed the original cross placed by Vasco da Gama. A visit to the tiny, whitewashed Portuguese chapel about half a kilometre from the Vasco da Gama Point transports one to another era. Built at the end of the 15th century, the chapel is thought to be the first Christian church in East Africa. Its graveyard, dating to the 16th century, and which is about five times the size of the chapel, is a fascinating portrait of the history of Malindi. The oldest grave there belongs to a Portuguese seaman buried by St Francis Xavier in 1542.
After the decline of Portuguese influence in East Africa, the graveyard lay unused for about 300 years. Then in 1894, one J Bell-Smith – believed to be a member of the Imperial British East African force that occupied Malindi between 1890 and 1895 – was buried there. Thereafter, the graveyard was occasionally used for burial until 1958.
WATAMU
Some 25 kilometres south of Malindi and 120 kilometres north of Mombasa lies the tranquil haven of Watamu with its white, sparkling beaches. The Watamu Marine Park, established in 1968 as Kenya’s first marine park, boasts over 600 species of fish in just 10 square kilometres. Watamu has developed into one of the world’s best snorkeling, fishing and diving spots. Within the Marine Park are several well-established resorts, and many private guest houses are scattered through the forest along the deserted shore. The hotels at Watamu overlook two beautiful inlets. Turtle Bay and Blue Lagoon, the former dotted with unnamed islets, one unmistakably the shape of a turtle.
Walk through the forest, explore the mangroves by boat, dive on the reef, or try your hand at big game fishing. Relax, unwind and soak up the atmosphere. In the forest are the ruins of Gedi, the lost city whose population inexplicably vanished in the 17th century. The outer wall of this lost town encloses an area of about 18 hectares and a well-informed guess would put the population at around 2,500. Many of the houses, together with the Sultan’s palace, have been excavated and partly restored. A walk through this lifeless town evokes mystery, suspense and melodrama as the visitor relives past era. Take an unforgettable sundowner at the Mida Creek. If you happen to be at Hemingways Resort at 4:30pm, book yourself on the two-and half hour sundowner dhow up and down the Mida Creek. For Ksh 2,450 and half that amount for children, you will enjoy bitings and drinks to your fill, as you watch the sun go down into the ocean.
Watamu is best known for ocean sports, particularly deep-sea fishing. If that is your interest – regardless of whether you are an experienced angler or a novice – then the place to be is Hemingways. All Hemingways’ deep-water fishing craft are twin-engine, and linked with each other and the shore base by radio. The crews are skilled and well versed in taking out newcomers to the sport. They enjoy showing you how it all works. Watamu caters for all tastes and pockets and the budget holiday makers is accommodated at Ocean Sports Hotel. The hotel sits on Turtle Bay, a seven-kilometre stretch of dazzling white sand, leading down to a warm, clear turquoise sea protected by fascinating coral reefs (expect in the off-season due to seaweed). It is one of the few family-run hotels left on the Kenya Coast, and has a very warm and friendly atmosphere.
There you can go diving or creek fishing, play tennis or squash or just exercise in the gym. You can go snorkeling all year round, and dolphin and whale watching between November and March. Ocean Sports is the meeting place for Watamu Hash Harriers, the group that has been described as "serious drinkers with a running problem." So, you are assured of fun if that is what you are after if under water exploring is not your style, not to worry," says Melinda Rees, Ocean Sports’ Customers Service Director. "From windsurfing to dolphin watching, boat trips, gentle walks to explore the rock pools or simply lying on the beach, the Watamu beach offers something for everyone."
SHIMBA HILLS
An hour’s drive from the Indian Ocean through undulating faming country and colourful villages gets you to the beautiful Shimba Hills, a stunning landscape with steep valleys, rolling hills and pockets of rain forest. While the wildlife may not be abundant, the area is home to the only sable antelope in Kenya. Sable is a chocolate-brown horse-like antelope with magnificent, sweeping, sickle-shaped horns.
The forests of Shimba resonate with exotic sounds of tree frogs, birds and bush babies. They host a number of tented camps and lodges, designed to induce relaxation. Place of interest for excursions include the Sheldrick Falls and the Mwalunganje Elephant Sanctuary, a community-based conservation project.
TSAVO
Apart from the man-eating lions that nearly stopped the construction of the Kenya-Uganda railway more than a century ago, Tsavo is renowned for its herd of elephants. You could be forgiven for thinking that the Tsavo elephants are a separate species, as their skin looks decidedly red. This is just the rich, brown dust giving them a photogenic ruby colour.
AMBOSELI
Amboseli is a place of stark contrast. Despite its sometimes dry and dusty appearance, it has an endless water supply filtered by thousands of feet of volcanic rock from Kilimanjaro’s icecap. These underground streams converge into two clear water springs in the heart of the park. The endemic dust is volcanic ash, which spewed from Kilimanjaro a millennium ago. The park is vast, the expanse only interrupted by the occasional trumpeting of elephants.
MASAI MARA
This land of abundant wildlife, ideal climate and diverse habitats is fanatic at any time of year. But it comes into its own when the wildebeest migrate from Tanzania’s Serengeti over the raging Mara River onto the vast grasslands. It’s a spectacle. The sheer determination of the animals is amazing. They move as though driven, across plain, grassland and water. They do not stop. Even when some drown, the others just go crashing by. It’s a spectacle of a lifetime. The animals migrate from Serengeti in Tanzania to Kenya’s Masai Mara between July and September and back in January and February.